Well, the inaugural run of the Earlham College New Zealand Semester is over. About half of the students have left the country already. I'm moving out of my home stay tomorrow morning.
The culminating event of the program was a seven day kayaking/hiking trip in Abel Tasman National Park in the north of the South Island. We drove up to Nelson and spent two nights at a campsite next to a soon to be "mainland island". I mentioned a while ago the strategy of eradicating mammalian pests (rats, stoats, possums, etc.) on offshore islands to protect native bird species. Another strategy is to install predator proof fencing around a section of forest on the mainland, kill all the pests inside, and then have a fenced in sanctuary. We'd visited a few before, but it was cool to see one that was in the process of being created. Back at the campground we celebrated the faculty leaders' daughter Ellie's 4th birthday, played balloon volleyball, and hung out with an sketchy/offensive drunk Kiwi man who looked like Bert Reynolds.
Like the Routeburn trip we split into two groups for the back country. My group got the ocean section first, paddling south along the coast in two person sea kayaks. It was very laid back, only a couple hours of paddling each day, then hours to spend lounging on the beech, although the wind off the ocean could be cold at times. At night the moon was bright enough to light up the whole ocean. The nights were cold and in morning when the sun hit the ocean it would steam.
Our second campsite, at the fortunately misnamed Mosquito Bay, was a great place. At high tide the campsite was surrounded on three sides by a tidal lagoon, but at low tide it was all a sandy beach that extended out to a small island. At night our campground was invaded by possums which aside from being a nuisances are really a blight on native wildlife, so there was nothing to do but go on a nocturnal possum hunt. Shane ended up bludgeoning one after everyone else had given up. One down, 70 million to go.
The switchover point for the trip was a two night stay at a hut in a large bay called The Anchorage. We played a game of capture the flag, pitting the two brigades against each other. It was a hard fought battle but we were victorious. In the end it came down to a daring amphibious assault with a kayak by Julia and myself which served as a diversion while our teammates stole the flag. We also built a massive sand castle/city which we named Panui (Maori for "big fort"), and then watched it get swallowed by the tide.
We traded our kayaks for hiking packs and set off on the Inland Track. The first day was crazy hot and the landscape felt oddly like the American southwest. I got to learn all sorts of things about Jay (one of our faculty leaders) on the hike, including an apocalyptic story of family drama around his step-sister's wedding in Turkey. The huts on the track were small and simple. We shared the space with good people, both Kiwis and internationals from as far away as Wales. We had some of the best stars of the trip the last night before the moon rose. The Southern Cross with the Milky Way spiraling out behind it.
The other group apparently had far more luck with ocean wildlife than we did, with dolphins swimming along side them and baby seals jumping onto the kayaks as they paddled.
After the tramp we wrapped up the program in a campground on the beach in a small town called Pohara Just west of Abel Tasman. We ate a delicious final meal at a local restaurant, filled out massive program evaluation forms, and did a last group check in. Pohara is a beautiful spot. The sunsets were astounding. The last morning we got up early in the rain and fog and standing on the beach felt like the edge of the world.
Back in Christchurch it's become full-blown fall. The air is filled with falling leaves. The weather reports say we might get a dusting of snow in a day or two. Still, the last few days have been pleasantly warm.
We had a farewell potluck with all the host families, which was predictably awkward. It was also kind of a weird way to end the program, with so many strangers around. Some students are decidedly happy to leave their home stays. Mine has been good though, even if living in suburbia drives me a bit nuts sometimes.
Yesterday a few of us who are sticking around for some extra time got together for drinks at the Bush Inn, a favorite meeting place near the university. I really don't know why we congregate there so much. It's a room full of people over 60 pouring their money into slot machines and watching horse racing. Kind of depressing actually. However, beer is cheap, it's a convenient location, and it has a nice outside seating area. Ashley, one of the guides from the Whanganui River trip back at the start of the program was down for a few days visiting us and staying with relatives. I ended up going a cookout at his family's place. Amazingly friendly people. I showed up, a total stranger, and they welcomed me in, hongied me (traditional Maori greeting where you press noses and/or foreheads for a second), and we ate and jammed on guitar for about an hour. After that it was off to the pubs where Susan and I toasted to things we were thankful for every time we drank. I don't know how many pitchers we went through.
Right now my host brother and his friends are booby trapping every door in the house. I'll need to tread lightly to get out of here. Tomorrow Susan, Bryan, Liz and I head down to Dunedin.
Things I have been appreciating:
-The phrase 'Gorsed' meaning "I've been stabbed by gorse, oh god, oh god, look at all the bood." Gorse is an invasive plant that devotes more than half of its biomass to various sharp and pointy protrusions. Touching it results in getting 'gorsed'. I've also been appreciating the mental image of Elliot levetated aboves the ground where he had just sat down screaming "It's Gorse!"
-Bellbirds. Walking through the woods with these little guys singing all around is something I will miss a lot.
-Slapping the sack.
-Dub Dub Dub Internet cafe. Just a really good place.
-Sea-salt stains on cloths and skin.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Monday, April 14, 2008
Robert (New Zealand) - Autumn
It's starting to feel like fall here in New Zealand. It's getting dark earlier, the days are starting to have that autumn feel, and some of the trees are starting to change (well the introduced European trees are changing, natives don't, but they're pretty much all gone here). We've also started to get rain more often and even a thunderstorm or two (It's been far too long).
We've been wrapping up our time in Christchurch. The last two weeks or so have been regular class schedule. We went on a few field trips to local businesses with positive environmental policies including a metalworking factory that's recycling water, a couple clothing manufacturers with sustainable practices (and got to meet the New Zealander of the Year who runs one of them), and a dairy farm that's using a 'digester' to generate power off the manure from its cows. Probably the most inspiring visit though was a newly started industrial waste reclamation plant that boasts the ability to reclaim for reuse or recycling, 80% of commercial or industrial waste that would otherwise go to landfill. The guy responsible for starting it is brilliant and ambitious. The plant has only been operational for two months and he's already looking into building two more. His ideas for changing how we deal with waste range from powering the plant off the waste it collects (with virtually no emissions), to using crushed glass to help wine grapes grow, to using algae to simultaneously treat waste water and create biofuel. As long as the landfill company doesn't overpower his business/strong-arm him out of the way (yay waste management mob-ties) you really get the sense that he could be on the forefront of completely changing how we think about consumption and waste. Even more interesting, none of it is really done out of environmental ethic, it's all about common sense and is quite profitable.
Over the weekend we finally went to a rugby game. The home team, the Canterbury Crusaders, are the best in their league. A large proportion of the team also plays for the national team, the All Blacks. The game was a lot of fun. Rugbys a beautifully brutal game and I like the flow of it. We did our part as cheering fans (or obnoxious tourists, take your pick), made a good share of semi-inappropriate crusade jokes, and watched the home team kill the Lions something like 31-6.
Shane and Bryan's rap is up on youtube.
http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=lFWCxtzaR0I
The video contains footage from around Christchurch, Routeburn, the West Coast excursion, a really bad Maori reenactment we went to and more. Check it out if you want a laugh, or just to be confused by inside jokes.
Classes and our service learning placements are pretty much over now. I did my finals today. Tomorrow is our last class day at the University of Canterbury. There are just a few loose ends of academic work to tie up and then I'm done with that. Wednesday we're headed up to the north of the South Island to do a kayaking/hiking trip in Abel Tasman National Park as a capstone to the program. Upon getting back we'll have a final celebration dinner and Earlham College New Zealand Semester 2008 will be done. After that it's a week of travel down south with some of the other students who are staying longer, then a week of travel with my father when he comes over, and then back to the states.
Things I have been appreciating:
-The Bog (Irish pub) always playing my favorite songs when I walk by at night. First Revelate and then Fisherman's Blues. It's quickly becoming a replacement for the iPod I left in the states.
-Eccentric bus drivers. Some blast blues music, some sing opera as they drive, some pat patrons on the head as they depart.
-Guest lecturers unwittingly mentioning topics that are inside jokes in our group and the snickering that ensues. Poor guest lectures don't know what's going on.
-When CNN international anchors say: "looking a little bit closer, lets broaden this out"
-Pints. 2 pint jugs might be more cost effective, but I love a good pint glass.
-Standing on the Port Hills just south of the city, looking out over Lyttelton Harbor, across the bay and being able to see my wwoof farmstay all the way over on the Banks Peninsula.
We've been wrapping up our time in Christchurch. The last two weeks or so have been regular class schedule. We went on a few field trips to local businesses with positive environmental policies including a metalworking factory that's recycling water, a couple clothing manufacturers with sustainable practices (and got to meet the New Zealander of the Year who runs one of them), and a dairy farm that's using a 'digester' to generate power off the manure from its cows. Probably the most inspiring visit though was a newly started industrial waste reclamation plant that boasts the ability to reclaim for reuse or recycling, 80% of commercial or industrial waste that would otherwise go to landfill. The guy responsible for starting it is brilliant and ambitious. The plant has only been operational for two months and he's already looking into building two more. His ideas for changing how we deal with waste range from powering the plant off the waste it collects (with virtually no emissions), to using crushed glass to help wine grapes grow, to using algae to simultaneously treat waste water and create biofuel. As long as the landfill company doesn't overpower his business/strong-arm him out of the way (yay waste management mob-ties) you really get the sense that he could be on the forefront of completely changing how we think about consumption and waste. Even more interesting, none of it is really done out of environmental ethic, it's all about common sense and is quite profitable.
Over the weekend we finally went to a rugby game. The home team, the Canterbury Crusaders, are the best in their league. A large proportion of the team also plays for the national team, the All Blacks. The game was a lot of fun. Rugbys a beautifully brutal game and I like the flow of it. We did our part as cheering fans (or obnoxious tourists, take your pick), made a good share of semi-inappropriate crusade jokes, and watched the home team kill the Lions something like 31-6.
Shane and Bryan's rap is up on youtube.
http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=lFWCxtzaR0I
The video contains footage from around Christchurch, Routeburn, the West Coast excursion, a really bad Maori reenactment we went to and more. Check it out if you want a laugh, or just to be confused by inside jokes.
Classes and our service learning placements are pretty much over now. I did my finals today. Tomorrow is our last class day at the University of Canterbury. There are just a few loose ends of academic work to tie up and then I'm done with that. Wednesday we're headed up to the north of the South Island to do a kayaking/hiking trip in Abel Tasman National Park as a capstone to the program. Upon getting back we'll have a final celebration dinner and Earlham College New Zealand Semester 2008 will be done. After that it's a week of travel down south with some of the other students who are staying longer, then a week of travel with my father when he comes over, and then back to the states.
Things I have been appreciating:
-The Bog (Irish pub) always playing my favorite songs when I walk by at night. First Revelate and then Fisherman's Blues. It's quickly becoming a replacement for the iPod I left in the states.
-Eccentric bus drivers. Some blast blues music, some sing opera as they drive, some pat patrons on the head as they depart.
-Guest lecturers unwittingly mentioning topics that are inside jokes in our group and the snickering that ensues. Poor guest lectures don't know what's going on.
-When CNN international anchors say: "looking a little bit closer, lets broaden this out"
-Pints. 2 pint jugs might be more cost effective, but I love a good pint glass.
-Standing on the Port Hills just south of the city, looking out over Lyttelton Harbor, across the bay and being able to see my wwoof farmstay all the way over on the Banks Peninsula.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
Sara (Greece) - GOATS
So, considering it’s been a ridiculous amount of time since my last post, I figured I’d hop on this thing and update! And, for the time being, I’m going to disregard the fact that I start with that exact same sentence almost every post! Wow. Anyway, back to business I suppose.
I don’t really know where to start actually. The last I wrote was right before spring break, so I guess that’s as good a place as any! Spring break was amazing. It was a month ago, but it was still the best time I’ve had here all semester. My family and Derek trekked over to Athens and for about 8 days and we tore up the country! Well, alright, not tore exactly, but you get the picture. We were in Athens for a few days, and then went to Nafplio, Mycenae, Corinth and the Isthmus. My two brothers left for London, and we continued to hike up into the mountains to this ridiculously charming mountain town called Zaklarou! Some of the most amazing pictures I have taken happened during that trip. And…AND I saw goats. AND SHEEP! Not only did I see them, there were huge herds of them way up in the mountains. They had bells around their necks and a legit herder with a little beagle. They were all over the mountain roads and the trails. We must have seen upwards of 6 groups. Crazy.
So, after about 8 days, Derek and my parents left; which left me about 9 weeks of Greece before I had to head home. Since then, I’ve dropped a class, written a bunch of papers and gone to Olympia and Delphi with my class. That in itself was amazing. I got to run a stade (ancient Olympic running event) in the first every Olympic stadium! And Delphi was just awe inspiring in itself, as you will be hard pressed to read any ancient text and not find over 200 references to the oracle at Delphi in the first 3 chapters! Going back to Beloit, and studying Classics will never be the same, as I can now attest to everything that ancient writers are describing in their accounts of the land. Not only can I attest to it, I can picture it. Amazing.
And that’s about it so far. After spring break, things have been pretty relaxed around here. However, this is my last weekend before a crazy 3-week filled time of trips, and so far, its been wonderful. Two nights ago, I went with 6 other girls and we found an Irish Pub in Athens (Weird, I know) where we drank excellent beer and sang raucously to a bunch of iconic American songs until a ridiculously early time in the morning. Last night, I met up with my roommate Danielle and another girl named Danielle and we made burritos…sort of. Apparently, Greece is devoid of sour cream, tortilla shells, tortilla chips, cilantro, beans and ripe avocadoes. Though, one thing Greece has taught me is to improvise at all costs! We had rice with “Mexican Sauce,” basically glorified ketchup. We found canned red kidney beans and combined some tomatoes and onions to make salsa! And finally, we used pita for the tortillas. It actually turned our pretty decent!
Next week, I have a Mt. Olympus trip planned, where, yes, I will be climbing Mt. Olympus! The weekend after is Greek Easter. Cue Danielle, Erin and me going to Crete to see Knossos and hike an 8 hour gorge! The weekend after I will be Santorini with Danielle and Erin again, where we will go tanning and snorkeling! Finally, I come back to Athens to perform the play (Antigone) I’m in. One more weekend after and I’m home. That leaves 5 weeks and I’m back in the states for good! I really can’t believe that my experience here is almost done! There have for sure been ups and downs to the trip, but it just seemed to go so fast. It’s weird to think I won’t be able to look out of the classroom window and see the Acropolis or Lykovitos Hill anymore. Hmm. But I suppose all good things have to come to an end sometime! Well, that’s it. Missing everyone at home and abroad tons, and I think about you guys often! I’ll see you all soon!!
I don’t really know where to start actually. The last I wrote was right before spring break, so I guess that’s as good a place as any! Spring break was amazing. It was a month ago, but it was still the best time I’ve had here all semester. My family and Derek trekked over to Athens and for about 8 days and we tore up the country! Well, alright, not tore exactly, but you get the picture. We were in Athens for a few days, and then went to Nafplio, Mycenae, Corinth and the Isthmus. My two brothers left for London, and we continued to hike up into the mountains to this ridiculously charming mountain town called Zaklarou! Some of the most amazing pictures I have taken happened during that trip. And…AND I saw goats. AND SHEEP! Not only did I see them, there were huge herds of them way up in the mountains. They had bells around their necks and a legit herder with a little beagle. They were all over the mountain roads and the trails. We must have seen upwards of 6 groups. Crazy.
So, after about 8 days, Derek and my parents left; which left me about 9 weeks of Greece before I had to head home. Since then, I’ve dropped a class, written a bunch of papers and gone to Olympia and Delphi with my class. That in itself was amazing. I got to run a stade (ancient Olympic running event) in the first every Olympic stadium! And Delphi was just awe inspiring in itself, as you will be hard pressed to read any ancient text and not find over 200 references to the oracle at Delphi in the first 3 chapters! Going back to Beloit, and studying Classics will never be the same, as I can now attest to everything that ancient writers are describing in their accounts of the land. Not only can I attest to it, I can picture it. Amazing.
And that’s about it so far. After spring break, things have been pretty relaxed around here. However, this is my last weekend before a crazy 3-week filled time of trips, and so far, its been wonderful. Two nights ago, I went with 6 other girls and we found an Irish Pub in Athens (Weird, I know) where we drank excellent beer and sang raucously to a bunch of iconic American songs until a ridiculously early time in the morning. Last night, I met up with my roommate Danielle and another girl named Danielle and we made burritos…sort of. Apparently, Greece is devoid of sour cream, tortilla shells, tortilla chips, cilantro, beans and ripe avocadoes. Though, one thing Greece has taught me is to improvise at all costs! We had rice with “Mexican Sauce,” basically glorified ketchup. We found canned red kidney beans and combined some tomatoes and onions to make salsa! And finally, we used pita for the tortillas. It actually turned our pretty decent!
Next week, I have a Mt. Olympus trip planned, where, yes, I will be climbing Mt. Olympus! The weekend after is Greek Easter. Cue Danielle, Erin and me going to Crete to see Knossos and hike an 8 hour gorge! The weekend after I will be Santorini with Danielle and Erin again, where we will go tanning and snorkeling! Finally, I come back to Athens to perform the play (Antigone) I’m in. One more weekend after and I’m home. That leaves 5 weeks and I’m back in the states for good! I really can’t believe that my experience here is almost done! There have for sure been ups and downs to the trip, but it just seemed to go so fast. It’s weird to think I won’t be able to look out of the classroom window and see the Acropolis or Lykovitos Hill anymore. Hmm. But I suppose all good things have to come to an end sometime! Well, that’s it. Missing everyone at home and abroad tons, and I think about you guys often! I’ll see you all soon!!
Friday, April 11, 2008
Ted (Burma): Yes, I am actually in Burma
I touched down in Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
yesterday at 8:45 Thai time, but 8:15 Myanmar time. I had
no idea there were half hour time zones. That's too much
math.
There was a free shuttle to a guesthouse with $4 dorm rooms,
and since three Americans had already made reservations
there, I figured it was a safe bet, especially since taxis
from the airport cost at least that much. They threw in free
breakfast even though we hadn't stayed, and what a nice
place. I think it's going to be a common thing here, but
they're also very overstaffed with possibly more staff than
guests, so at least 20 in a small place. Some of the nicest
people I've ever met. I hear that the average wage at the
guesthouse is $40 a month.
After changing money on the streets with a sketchy guy (the
black market rate is nearly twice as good as the official
rate) I went to the Shwedagon Pagoda, the massive golden
religious center of Myanmar. There were a ton of locals
there, and my bare feet were burning from the sun-heated
tiles surrounding the pagoda. The heat is crazy here!
The highlight of the day was when I went out drinking with a
guy from Wales and a girl from Germany, and after a little
bar hopping, we ended up at "Music Pub" where we were the
only foreigners. After passing tons of neon lit signs that
all turned out to be fashion stores, and wading through
crowds of people selling old clothes, eating, drinking and
socializing on the streets in the city center, we were
overjoyed to find an actual "pub". But what a strange pub.
It was almost all guys sitting at small tables facing a
stage. And the entertainment? Dance music would be turned on
for several minutes, and about 7-8 girls would come on the
stage and do little model walks. They would walk forward,
turn around, tilt to the right, and then walk back. The
whole time, looking unhappy at best, and miserable at worst.
After each "set" they would go into a tiny room and change
their clothes. Sometimes they wore matching dresses and
other times they wore varying styles. We couldn't figure out
if this was plain entertainment or some kind of fashion
show, but we eventually decided it was as close to a go-go
bar as you can get in Burma since the girls were all young
and wearing tight clothes. Never seen anything like it.
We also talked to two Burmese guys sitting at our table, and
the conversation really depressed me at one point for
reasons I won't get into now, but which are probably
obvious. They were good guys though and we had a lot more
laughs then serious moments.
On a final note, I'm very very sad that the government
pretty much has a monopoly on beer in the country. There is
Myanmar Beer, and Mandalay beer. The former is great, but
definitely run by the government, and Mandalay is supposedly
sketchy and possibly run by the government as well. But
cruel world! Not the beer!
The semester is almost over! Can you believe that? Looking
forward to seeing you all in Fall.
yesterday at 8:45 Thai time, but 8:15 Myanmar time. I had
no idea there were half hour time zones. That's too much
math.
There was a free shuttle to a guesthouse with $4 dorm rooms,
and since three Americans had already made reservations
there, I figured it was a safe bet, especially since taxis
from the airport cost at least that much. They threw in free
breakfast even though we hadn't stayed, and what a nice
place. I think it's going to be a common thing here, but
they're also very overstaffed with possibly more staff than
guests, so at least 20 in a small place. Some of the nicest
people I've ever met. I hear that the average wage at the
guesthouse is $40 a month.
After changing money on the streets with a sketchy guy (the
black market rate is nearly twice as good as the official
rate) I went to the Shwedagon Pagoda, the massive golden
religious center of Myanmar. There were a ton of locals
there, and my bare feet were burning from the sun-heated
tiles surrounding the pagoda. The heat is crazy here!
The highlight of the day was when I went out drinking with a
guy from Wales and a girl from Germany, and after a little
bar hopping, we ended up at "Music Pub" where we were the
only foreigners. After passing tons of neon lit signs that
all turned out to be fashion stores, and wading through
crowds of people selling old clothes, eating, drinking and
socializing on the streets in the city center, we were
overjoyed to find an actual "pub". But what a strange pub.
It was almost all guys sitting at small tables facing a
stage. And the entertainment? Dance music would be turned on
for several minutes, and about 7-8 girls would come on the
stage and do little model walks. They would walk forward,
turn around, tilt to the right, and then walk back. The
whole time, looking unhappy at best, and miserable at worst.
After each "set" they would go into a tiny room and change
their clothes. Sometimes they wore matching dresses and
other times they wore varying styles. We couldn't figure out
if this was plain entertainment or some kind of fashion
show, but we eventually decided it was as close to a go-go
bar as you can get in Burma since the girls were all young
and wearing tight clothes. Never seen anything like it.
We also talked to two Burmese guys sitting at our table, and
the conversation really depressed me at one point for
reasons I won't get into now, but which are probably
obvious. They were good guys though and we had a lot more
laughs then serious moments.
On a final note, I'm very very sad that the government
pretty much has a monopoly on beer in the country. There is
Myanmar Beer, and Mandalay beer. The former is great, but
definitely run by the government, and Mandalay is supposedly
sketchy and possibly run by the government as well. But
cruel world! Not the beer!
The semester is almost over! Can you believe that? Looking
forward to seeing you all in Fall.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Audrey (Australia)-Traveling
So my traveling can in no way compare to KO's trials in Senegal but apparently it still takes a long time to describe...Good luck with the epic post!
The first thing I did after the last entry was go to Tasmania. It's an amazing island and an interesting place to study what's going on the in the Australian environment. About 40% of Tassie is a World Heritage Area (WHA) because of it's ecological and cultural significance. Within the huge WHA there are mountains, lakes, and impressive old-growth Eucalypt forests. It was strange because it was so different than any other forest I have ever been in. Many of the plants in Tassie are the same as when the continent split from Antartica and when you look at the giant ferns it is easy to imagine dinosaurs roaming through this same land. I also saw: a platypus, an enchidna (porcupine-ish), a wombat (badger-like), and multiple pademelons (very miniature kangaroos). Although I liked Tasmania the whole time I was there I was very concious of being on an isolated island at what feels like the end of the world. It was a little comforting to get back to the familiarity of a city.
Next I spent five days in Melbourne which was great. I really needed a chance to recover because packing my bags and driving for hours every day in Tassie got old really quickly. I stayed in North Melbourne which was great because it wasn't touristy or ritzy. I felt as though I was really seeing the city. In many ways it reminded me of Chicago. I met up with my friend Sarah who was staying in South Melbourne and we sampled international food, admired architecture, and tried in vain to see Priscilla Queen of the Desert for less than $100.
On the train back to Byron Bay I saw my first kangaroos! It was so exciting and so strange to watch them hop around. Somehow it just doesn't seem natural.
Next we went on a three day Aboriginal camping trip. It was certainly the strangest camping trip of my life. We were mostly in the Byron Bay/Lismore region which for some reason I hadn't been expecting. During the trip we were forbidden cameras, watches, and anything to read or write with. However, we were around that sort of technology all the time so it was interesting to get an outsiders perspective. Most of all I was impressed with how open and friendly everyone was to us. There is certainly a vast amount of knowledge to be gained from Aboriginal cultures and it is ridiculous to me that most Australians have never even met an Aboriginal. Staying with our hosts also impressed on me what an amazing loss these people have endured and what it must be like to live in a cutlure that is consistently marginalized and misunderstood. It was a sobering and painful realization.
After our Aboriginal camping trip we spent two quick days in Byron Bay before going to Fraser Island. Fraser was amazing. It all seemed like one big vacation even though we really learned quite a bit about the ecology of the island. Fraser is the biggest sand mass in the world and another WHA. It is accessible only by four wheel drive (FWD) and the roads are really atrocious. The best way of getting around is driving on the beaches at low tide. Driving on the beaches felt a bit like a guilty pleasure but it was also an amazing way to get around. Every morning we would get to wake up by driving down a gorgeous sand beach on our way to 'class.' The ocean isn't much good for swimming because of bad rips and sharks but there are gorgeous lakes that were amazing to swim in. We also got to look at some more rainforest areas in the center of the island. Our teacher, John Sinclair, was incredibly inspiring because he has been the main figure responsible for conserving Fraser Island. He stood up against logging and sand mining in the 1970's when those industries were supported by the government and no one would else would fight them. Despite enduring legal battles, smear campagins and the like John perservered and eventually achieved his goal.
Now I'm back in Byron Bay and we're working on getting things wrapped up before we leave for our ISP's next weekend. I will be working with an organization called Green Collect in Melbourne for mine, studying how this group has been able to integrate principles of environmental sustainability and social justice. I have a big final to study for on Friday and our final ISP proposal on Thursday so I will definitely being schoolwork.
The first thing I did after the last entry was go to Tasmania. It's an amazing island and an interesting place to study what's going on the in the Australian environment. About 40% of Tassie is a World Heritage Area (WHA) because of it's ecological and cultural significance. Within the huge WHA there are mountains, lakes, and impressive old-growth Eucalypt forests. It was strange because it was so different than any other forest I have ever been in. Many of the plants in Tassie are the same as when the continent split from Antartica and when you look at the giant ferns it is easy to imagine dinosaurs roaming through this same land. I also saw: a platypus, an enchidna (porcupine-ish), a wombat (badger-like), and multiple pademelons (very miniature kangaroos). Although I liked Tasmania the whole time I was there I was very concious of being on an isolated island at what feels like the end of the world. It was a little comforting to get back to the familiarity of a city.
Next I spent five days in Melbourne which was great. I really needed a chance to recover because packing my bags and driving for hours every day in Tassie got old really quickly. I stayed in North Melbourne which was great because it wasn't touristy or ritzy. I felt as though I was really seeing the city. In many ways it reminded me of Chicago. I met up with my friend Sarah who was staying in South Melbourne and we sampled international food, admired architecture, and tried in vain to see Priscilla Queen of the Desert for less than $100.
On the train back to Byron Bay I saw my first kangaroos! It was so exciting and so strange to watch them hop around. Somehow it just doesn't seem natural.
Next we went on a three day Aboriginal camping trip. It was certainly the strangest camping trip of my life. We were mostly in the Byron Bay/Lismore region which for some reason I hadn't been expecting. During the trip we were forbidden cameras, watches, and anything to read or write with. However, we were around that sort of technology all the time so it was interesting to get an outsiders perspective. Most of all I was impressed with how open and friendly everyone was to us. There is certainly a vast amount of knowledge to be gained from Aboriginal cultures and it is ridiculous to me that most Australians have never even met an Aboriginal. Staying with our hosts also impressed on me what an amazing loss these people have endured and what it must be like to live in a cutlure that is consistently marginalized and misunderstood. It was a sobering and painful realization.
After our Aboriginal camping trip we spent two quick days in Byron Bay before going to Fraser Island. Fraser was amazing. It all seemed like one big vacation even though we really learned quite a bit about the ecology of the island. Fraser is the biggest sand mass in the world and another WHA. It is accessible only by four wheel drive (FWD) and the roads are really atrocious. The best way of getting around is driving on the beaches at low tide. Driving on the beaches felt a bit like a guilty pleasure but it was also an amazing way to get around. Every morning we would get to wake up by driving down a gorgeous sand beach on our way to 'class.' The ocean isn't much good for swimming because of bad rips and sharks but there are gorgeous lakes that were amazing to swim in. We also got to look at some more rainforest areas in the center of the island. Our teacher, John Sinclair, was incredibly inspiring because he has been the main figure responsible for conserving Fraser Island. He stood up against logging and sand mining in the 1970's when those industries were supported by the government and no one would else would fight them. Despite enduring legal battles, smear campagins and the like John perservered and eventually achieved his goal.
Now I'm back in Byron Bay and we're working on getting things wrapped up before we leave for our ISP's next weekend. I will be working with an organization called Green Collect in Melbourne for mine, studying how this group has been able to integrate principles of environmental sustainability and social justice. I have a big final to study for on Friday and our final ISP proposal on Thursday so I will definitely being schoolwork.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
KO (Senegal) At least there were mangos
Last week was our spring break and I went with Marge and Lizzie to Kayes, Mali. It is a small city about an hour inside the country. We were thinking about trying to get all the way to Bamako, the capital, but decided that with only a week off we wouldn't have enough time in the city to really make it worth while. It turns out that Lizzie's host dad is from Kayes and still has some family and friends in the city, which ended up being very lucky for us. We met his childhood friend Ibrahima and their family, along with their granddaughter, Adji, who is about our age and married to Cheikh, Lizzie's host dad's grandson.
We left Dakar Saturday morning, we got to the station at 7:30am and were told that there was a bus leaving at 8, so we bought tickets and waited. We boarded the bus around 10 and then sat for a while before driving across the street to switch buses and then sit some more and then go to the gas station and then finally leave the city around noon. The ride to Kaolack, the first larger city, was fine, although we learned very early on that the bus only had 2 windows on each side that actually opened, which was not at all good. But after leaving Kaolack it is about a 6 hour drive to Tambacounda, the last major town/city before hitting the Mali border and the road is absolutely awful. There are so many gigantic potholes that the bus had to drive like 10 miles an hour and spent a good deal of time driving in the sand along the side of the road because you could go faster than if you were actually on the road. We got to Tambacounda probably around 10 or 11 at night and stopped for dinner etc and then continued for a few hours to the border, which we discovered is not actually open when it is dark, so we slept on a sheet that some nice man gave us from about 5am-7am and then sat around for another few hours before we wre actually allowed to enter Mali. We ended up getting to Kayes around noon and tried to find a hotel that was recommended to us, but it was too expensive.
So we called Ibrahima, who sent Cheikh to get us, and we went to Ibrahima's and then decided to stay at the youth hostel we'd read about that was about $6 per night per person. We all took much much much needed showers before heading out to search for food. Cheikh came at night and took us to a pastery shop with AC, which was amazing and then we went to bed around 9 because we were all beat, but then woke up at 10 when Cheikh and Adji brought us a cooler with ice in it, which was extremely nice, it was absolutely great.
Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were all spent in similar fashions, so I won't go into detail about each day and just give you a summary of all of the things we did. We spent a lot more time in the ACed pastery shop when we were trying to find a tourist office that we were told about so we could figure out how to visit some waterfalls that are about 15km outside of the city. We never found the office and never got to the waterfall. We did however, go with Adji twice to the river, which is vrey shallow and we walked halfway across to little islands so that we could swim and bath in water that was a little cleaner than the water along the edge where there were just tons of people doing laundry and taking baths. We also spent a lot of time in the great market, it was a lot different from the markets in Dakar where there is a section for food, a section for fabric, a section for housewares etc, here they were all just all over the place. We all agreed that the fabric in Mali was a lot nicer and prettier than that in Senegal. We decided this was because it is all made in Mali and then they send the less pretty stuff to us and keep the good stuff for themselves. One night we went to the end of a dance competition, it was sad because we just got to hear them announce the winners, but it was still fun to see how excited everyone got. It was different neighborhoods in the city competing against eachother. We did get to see a little dancing though as we left the stadium, people were celebrating outside.
So we left bright and early Thursday morning, at 5am and figured this way we would avoid having to wait at the border for so long since we would get there once the sun was up. We thought the trip was going to be a peice of cake because the bus actually left on time and all of the windows opened, but this turned out to just be false. We did get through the first part of the border just fine, but then ended up waiting just inside senegal for about 3 or 4 hours because some of the people who had to declare things at customs decided to disappear for a while. Then on that wonderful road between Tambacounda and Kaolack our bus broke down for about another 3 hours and we overheard someone say that the company was going to send us a new bus from Dakar, which was about 6 or 7 hours away, so it was great that the bus got going again. However, at the next town we came to we got stopped at a police checkpoint, and the entire cargo on the bus was checked, which took another 2ish hours. To top it all off, I got kind of sick, and I'm not really sure why. I first pooped in a "bathroom" at the border when we were stuck there for 3 hours, although it was really a shower and I decided that I would just consider my shit punishment for the border police making us sit there for so long. It got subsequently worse as time went on, and I'm not sure if this has happened to anyone else, probably not any of you in cushy Europe, but I had the unique experience of PEEING OUT OF MY ASS! Literally my shit was the consistency of pee, it was pretty horrible, especially because once in a while I would feel like I had to barf instead and couldn't decide which would make me feel better. The guy sitting next to me on the bus also almost got into a fight with another guy who said he was really sitting in that seat and refused to move. There were also 2 Nigerian missionaries on the bus on their way to Gambia and spent a lot of time trying to convert us, all the while I just sort of want to die. It was horrible in the best way possible.
We got back to Dakar around 6:30am on Friday, which was Senegalese Independence day, and saw some of the preparations for the parade as we taxied back to our houses, but then fell asleep and didn't even get to watch it on tv. We were all disappointed to learn upon waking up that the fireworks were the night of the 3rd...
All in all it was a lot of fun, and I was glad we could all laugh about the situations we got ourselves into, and that none of us died from the heat, and that Mali has the best mangos ever!
Spring Break themes:
1. I feel drunk, but really I'm just hot.
2. Even the wind is hot!
3. Take me to the river, uhn uhn uhn, throw me in the water!
We left Dakar Saturday morning, we got to the station at 7:30am and were told that there was a bus leaving at 8, so we bought tickets and waited. We boarded the bus around 10 and then sat for a while before driving across the street to switch buses and then sit some more and then go to the gas station and then finally leave the city around noon. The ride to Kaolack, the first larger city, was fine, although we learned very early on that the bus only had 2 windows on each side that actually opened, which was not at all good. But after leaving Kaolack it is about a 6 hour drive to Tambacounda, the last major town/city before hitting the Mali border and the road is absolutely awful. There are so many gigantic potholes that the bus had to drive like 10 miles an hour and spent a good deal of time driving in the sand along the side of the road because you could go faster than if you were actually on the road. We got to Tambacounda probably around 10 or 11 at night and stopped for dinner etc and then continued for a few hours to the border, which we discovered is not actually open when it is dark, so we slept on a sheet that some nice man gave us from about 5am-7am and then sat around for another few hours before we wre actually allowed to enter Mali. We ended up getting to Kayes around noon and tried to find a hotel that was recommended to us, but it was too expensive.
So we called Ibrahima, who sent Cheikh to get us, and we went to Ibrahima's and then decided to stay at the youth hostel we'd read about that was about $6 per night per person. We all took much much much needed showers before heading out to search for food. Cheikh came at night and took us to a pastery shop with AC, which was amazing and then we went to bed around 9 because we were all beat, but then woke up at 10 when Cheikh and Adji brought us a cooler with ice in it, which was extremely nice, it was absolutely great.
Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were all spent in similar fashions, so I won't go into detail about each day and just give you a summary of all of the things we did. We spent a lot more time in the ACed pastery shop when we were trying to find a tourist office that we were told about so we could figure out how to visit some waterfalls that are about 15km outside of the city. We never found the office and never got to the waterfall. We did however, go with Adji twice to the river, which is vrey shallow and we walked halfway across to little islands so that we could swim and bath in water that was a little cleaner than the water along the edge where there were just tons of people doing laundry and taking baths. We also spent a lot of time in the great market, it was a lot different from the markets in Dakar where there is a section for food, a section for fabric, a section for housewares etc, here they were all just all over the place. We all agreed that the fabric in Mali was a lot nicer and prettier than that in Senegal. We decided this was because it is all made in Mali and then they send the less pretty stuff to us and keep the good stuff for themselves. One night we went to the end of a dance competition, it was sad because we just got to hear them announce the winners, but it was still fun to see how excited everyone got. It was different neighborhoods in the city competing against eachother. We did get to see a little dancing though as we left the stadium, people were celebrating outside.
So we left bright and early Thursday morning, at 5am and figured this way we would avoid having to wait at the border for so long since we would get there once the sun was up. We thought the trip was going to be a peice of cake because the bus actually left on time and all of the windows opened, but this turned out to just be false. We did get through the first part of the border just fine, but then ended up waiting just inside senegal for about 3 or 4 hours because some of the people who had to declare things at customs decided to disappear for a while. Then on that wonderful road between Tambacounda and Kaolack our bus broke down for about another 3 hours and we overheard someone say that the company was going to send us a new bus from Dakar, which was about 6 or 7 hours away, so it was great that the bus got going again. However, at the next town we came to we got stopped at a police checkpoint, and the entire cargo on the bus was checked, which took another 2ish hours. To top it all off, I got kind of sick, and I'm not really sure why. I first pooped in a "bathroom" at the border when we were stuck there for 3 hours, although it was really a shower and I decided that I would just consider my shit punishment for the border police making us sit there for so long. It got subsequently worse as time went on, and I'm not sure if this has happened to anyone else, probably not any of you in cushy Europe, but I had the unique experience of PEEING OUT OF MY ASS! Literally my shit was the consistency of pee, it was pretty horrible, especially because once in a while I would feel like I had to barf instead and couldn't decide which would make me feel better. The guy sitting next to me on the bus also almost got into a fight with another guy who said he was really sitting in that seat and refused to move. There were also 2 Nigerian missionaries on the bus on their way to Gambia and spent a lot of time trying to convert us, all the while I just sort of want to die. It was horrible in the best way possible.
We got back to Dakar around 6:30am on Friday, which was Senegalese Independence day, and saw some of the preparations for the parade as we taxied back to our houses, but then fell asleep and didn't even get to watch it on tv. We were all disappointed to learn upon waking up that the fireworks were the night of the 3rd...
All in all it was a lot of fun, and I was glad we could all laugh about the situations we got ourselves into, and that none of us died from the heat, and that Mali has the best mangos ever!
Spring Break themes:
1. I feel drunk, but really I'm just hot.
2. Even the wind is hot!
3. Take me to the river, uhn uhn uhn, throw me in the water!
Friday, April 4, 2008
John (Poland) Obscene Barmen, Hijacked Hotels and Other Adventures in Hungary and Romania
Hey all, it's good to be writing you all from the comfort of my dorm, back (temporarily) in Krakow after a week in Hungary and Romania.
The trip itself was very fun in terms of what we saw. We started with a night train to Budapest, which was felt so wonderfully European, I couldn't stand it. After that there were two days in Budapest where we met up with the Berlin group, which were very fun. There actually wasn't too much sightseeing in the city then and most of the time was spent on various debaucheries. After two months living with nothing but girls, I don't mind telling you that boys nights were sorely needed. The city itself was very nice, and a huge change of pace from Krakow which feels small, cozy, knowable. Budapest is huge, sprawling and just way too full of stuff to get a good sense of in such a short amount of time. Hungary also had a very different feel from Poland. The country isn't adjusting to capitalist democracy as well and people are still very dour and depressed (it's always a world leader in suicide). Whereas the Poles seem to revel in the glories of spectacular failed uprisings of the past, the Hungarians seems to just internalize the defeat. There is apparently a Hungarian saying that if you live in Hungary for a while you learn to live with suffering and if you live there long enough, you learn to like it.
So after two days, we hopped on a bus and headed for Transylvania, which is an area that was long a part of the Hungarian empire, but was given to Romania after WWII. Both sides have historical claims to the region (although Hungary's are probably stronger) and we were looking at how ethnic minorities deal with living in such a contested region. We spent five and a half days seeing different towns(mostly Hungarian, with some Seiki and Saxon), learning about the region's history as contested territory and how different peoples have learned to live together. The area traditionally was home to mostly Hungarians, but also Romanians, Saxons (imported German industrial workers), Jews, Gypsies and other smaller minorities such as the Seiki. It was very cool to see the area, because Romania in general and Transylvania specifically are much poorer than the rest of Europe and so touring the region was almost like going back in time. People still used horses, donkeys, their children and bare hands to work their fields, most roads were dirt and even the cities seemed to be crumbling with serious infrastructure problems (lots of open sewers). Although Romania is in the EU, it isn't in the Schengen Zone and it very much felt like seeing how the other half lives.
That being said, we spent all nights but one with Hungarian families, who were just incredibly nice. We were generally staying in the best homes in the village, which were comfortable, and the hospitality was unbeatable. Everywhere we went there was a welcoming ceremony, which centered around shots of the locally made moonshine called Palenka, which is deceptively strong. As soon as you finished your shot there would be someone at your shoulder giving you a refill. After the welcome ceremony, we would repast to the kitchen/dining area, where we were summarily stuffed. Most dinners would consist of bread throughout, with an excellent soup, again liberally ladled into your bowl, then a main course of rice/noodles and homemade goulash. After you'd eaten enough to visibly distend your stomach, a tray of pastries (often made with lard) would be brought out, which you would have to sample at least one or two of, both to avoid offending your hosts and because they were delicious. I can honestly say that I've never ate as well or felt as immediately welcomed as in Transylvania.
Although the trip was filled with amusing incidents, I will highlight only two, which I believe will be of most interest to you all.
The first story is perhaps my favorite memory from the trip. It occurred on our last night, which was the only one in which we stayed in a hotel rather than peoples' houses. We had another great dinner, then enjoyed some fantastic gypsy dancing, which, let me just say, is incredibly badass. Those gypsy men not only are awesome dancers but they can provide their own rythmic music through the tapping and knee slapping, wow. Anyway, the dancer's musician was just packing up and people were wandering out when I was summoned from my room by a couple of the Berlin guys, who had convinced the hotel to keep the speakers up and connected them to the lobby computer. We went downstairs and found that the hotel was willing to let us take over the lobby computer for a dance party. Naturally, I sprung into action and, working with a very nice woman from the hotel, configured the sound system,downloaded itunes on the computer and hooked up my iPod (yes, I've gone to the dark side, sigh). By this time, most of the people from the group were down in the main room and starting from the first bars of Ignition Remix, the party was on and poppin'. We basically took over the bottom floor of that hotel, including adjoining bar area, it was great and the hotel was happy to lets us do it, good times. As Beloiters could probably guess, I was in my element DJing the party, mixing major R&B/Rap dance songs with a few lesser known jams. At one point we put on some Hungarian swing, which got the Lexia Budapest director, a large middle aged Hungarian women named Hoyne (spelled phonetically for y'all) and our guide, Andras, also a boomer himself, out on the floor and cutting some serious rug, it was a good night for everyone.
The other story revolves around a phrase that some guys from the Berlin group had picked up after watching a video in Krakow. The phrase describes a sexual act that I won't detail here (though you're welcome to ask me later). In the original video, the giver of this act is encouraged by a fellow off screen to "Freak that bitch out, Tone!" in a hilarious intonation which must be heard to fully be appreciated. Anyway, this soon became somewhat of a catchphrase among certain members of our group, being used when ever possible (ie, when you see two pigeons mating, you might yell to the male, "freak that bitch out!".
So one night in a small mountain farming village, the group decides to go out to the local bar for drinks and everyone is having fun, when we notice that two group members have snuck off for a little slap and tickle. Two of the guys want to sneak outside their door to yell the catchphrase, which we dissuade them from doing. Instead they decide to wait until the guy has gotten back and then to yell it at him when he comes back to the bar. This plan soon involves the whole group and becomes more and more elaborate, getting a life of its own. Finally, when the lucky guy (Teddy) enters 90 minutes later, he walks up to the bar, which is run by a very nice let's say 60 year old Hungarian man who is standing next to Andras. As Teddy starts to order, Andras holds up his hand and Brian (the mastermind of this scheme) says, "Wait, Teddy, this guy has something he wants to say to you." The barman looks down at a small note card in his hand, clears his throat and says in a clear but heavily accented voice "Freak that bitch out!" And scene.
I'm off to Prague to meet my friend from Homewood, Kristin, so hopefully there will be more tales to tell soon.
The trip itself was very fun in terms of what we saw. We started with a night train to Budapest, which was felt so wonderfully European, I couldn't stand it. After that there were two days in Budapest where we met up with the Berlin group, which were very fun. There actually wasn't too much sightseeing in the city then and most of the time was spent on various debaucheries. After two months living with nothing but girls, I don't mind telling you that boys nights were sorely needed. The city itself was very nice, and a huge change of pace from Krakow which feels small, cozy, knowable. Budapest is huge, sprawling and just way too full of stuff to get a good sense of in such a short amount of time. Hungary also had a very different feel from Poland. The country isn't adjusting to capitalist democracy as well and people are still very dour and depressed (it's always a world leader in suicide). Whereas the Poles seem to revel in the glories of spectacular failed uprisings of the past, the Hungarians seems to just internalize the defeat. There is apparently a Hungarian saying that if you live in Hungary for a while you learn to live with suffering and if you live there long enough, you learn to like it.
So after two days, we hopped on a bus and headed for Transylvania, which is an area that was long a part of the Hungarian empire, but was given to Romania after WWII. Both sides have historical claims to the region (although Hungary's are probably stronger) and we were looking at how ethnic minorities deal with living in such a contested region. We spent five and a half days seeing different towns(mostly Hungarian, with some Seiki and Saxon), learning about the region's history as contested territory and how different peoples have learned to live together. The area traditionally was home to mostly Hungarians, but also Romanians, Saxons (imported German industrial workers), Jews, Gypsies and other smaller minorities such as the Seiki. It was very cool to see the area, because Romania in general and Transylvania specifically are much poorer than the rest of Europe and so touring the region was almost like going back in time. People still used horses, donkeys, their children and bare hands to work their fields, most roads were dirt and even the cities seemed to be crumbling with serious infrastructure problems (lots of open sewers). Although Romania is in the EU, it isn't in the Schengen Zone and it very much felt like seeing how the other half lives.
That being said, we spent all nights but one with Hungarian families, who were just incredibly nice. We were generally staying in the best homes in the village, which were comfortable, and the hospitality was unbeatable. Everywhere we went there was a welcoming ceremony, which centered around shots of the locally made moonshine called Palenka, which is deceptively strong. As soon as you finished your shot there would be someone at your shoulder giving you a refill. After the welcome ceremony, we would repast to the kitchen/dining area, where we were summarily stuffed. Most dinners would consist of bread throughout, with an excellent soup, again liberally ladled into your bowl, then a main course of rice/noodles and homemade goulash. After you'd eaten enough to visibly distend your stomach, a tray of pastries (often made with lard) would be brought out, which you would have to sample at least one or two of, both to avoid offending your hosts and because they were delicious. I can honestly say that I've never ate as well or felt as immediately welcomed as in Transylvania.
Although the trip was filled with amusing incidents, I will highlight only two, which I believe will be of most interest to you all.
The first story is perhaps my favorite memory from the trip. It occurred on our last night, which was the only one in which we stayed in a hotel rather than peoples' houses. We had another great dinner, then enjoyed some fantastic gypsy dancing, which, let me just say, is incredibly badass. Those gypsy men not only are awesome dancers but they can provide their own rythmic music through the tapping and knee slapping, wow. Anyway, the dancer's musician was just packing up and people were wandering out when I was summoned from my room by a couple of the Berlin guys, who had convinced the hotel to keep the speakers up and connected them to the lobby computer. We went downstairs and found that the hotel was willing to let us take over the lobby computer for a dance party. Naturally, I sprung into action and, working with a very nice woman from the hotel, configured the sound system,downloaded itunes on the computer and hooked up my iPod (yes, I've gone to the dark side, sigh). By this time, most of the people from the group were down in the main room and starting from the first bars of Ignition Remix, the party was on and poppin'. We basically took over the bottom floor of that hotel, including adjoining bar area, it was great and the hotel was happy to lets us do it, good times. As Beloiters could probably guess, I was in my element DJing the party, mixing major R&B/Rap dance songs with a few lesser known jams. At one point we put on some Hungarian swing, which got the Lexia Budapest director, a large middle aged Hungarian women named Hoyne (spelled phonetically for y'all) and our guide, Andras, also a boomer himself, out on the floor and cutting some serious rug, it was a good night for everyone.
The other story revolves around a phrase that some guys from the Berlin group had picked up after watching a video in Krakow. The phrase describes a sexual act that I won't detail here (though you're welcome to ask me later). In the original video, the giver of this act is encouraged by a fellow off screen to "Freak that bitch out, Tone!" in a hilarious intonation which must be heard to fully be appreciated. Anyway, this soon became somewhat of a catchphrase among certain members of our group, being used when ever possible (ie, when you see two pigeons mating, you might yell to the male, "freak that bitch out!".
So one night in a small mountain farming village, the group decides to go out to the local bar for drinks and everyone is having fun, when we notice that two group members have snuck off for a little slap and tickle. Two of the guys want to sneak outside their door to yell the catchphrase, which we dissuade them from doing. Instead they decide to wait until the guy has gotten back and then to yell it at him when he comes back to the bar. This plan soon involves the whole group and becomes more and more elaborate, getting a life of its own. Finally, when the lucky guy (Teddy) enters 90 minutes later, he walks up to the bar, which is run by a very nice let's say 60 year old Hungarian man who is standing next to Andras. As Teddy starts to order, Andras holds up his hand and Brian (the mastermind of this scheme) says, "Wait, Teddy, this guy has something he wants to say to you." The barman looks down at a small note card in his hand, clears his throat and says in a clear but heavily accented voice "Freak that bitch out!" And scene.
I'm off to Prague to meet my friend from Homewood, Kristin, so hopefully there will be more tales to tell soon.
Kira (Thailand): Adobe, Asoke, and other Adventures
I never thought I’d say this, but it’s really good to be back in Khon Kaen. Yesterday morning when I was walking past the classroom, one of the little pre-school-aged kids who hangs out outside ran up to me and hugged me around the knees, shouting “FARANG! FARANG!” He motioned to his two friends, and they ran up and hugged me too. “FARANG! FARANG!” Apparently, they missed us when we were in Bangkok...
Then in the afternoon, some of us returned to the local elementary school where we have been helping build an adobe music building. We stomped in mud, coated the walls with our mixture, and joked around with the workers. I don’t think I can explain how much I love this building process. It’s so sustainable and traditional, and incredibly fun(The first time we built there, the kids were building too, but they’re on summer break now. They have been an integral part of the building process.). When we were stomping in the mud, I led the group in the moose song and Princess Pat (really, would you expect otherwise?) And then the director of the school invited us over for an amazing homemade dinner. It was so good to eat Isaan food outside on a porch under the palm trees again.
As I said, it’s good to be home.
Notable events since last time I posted:
1. The Asoke community: The Asoke are really extreme Buddhists who try to live without any greed at all. They grow their own food, do everything communally, refrain from wearing shoes, and follow the 5 precepts very, very carefully. The community we stayed with for a night consisted mainly of school children (apparently, parents can send their kids there for free) and older women whose husbands aren’t Asoke (Thai marital relationships aren’t usally super-close anyway, so it’s not unusual). The Asoke wake up every morning at 3, have discussion/class from 4-6, work from 6-8, breakfast at 9 (most of the adults only eat one meal a day), work again from 12-2 and 2-4, dinner (for the kids and us) at 5, meeting from 6-8, and sleep after that. We had a really good time there, actually. We got to help out with work (gardening, fertilizer-making), play games (huggy bear, down by the banks, etc) with the kids, and have a “cultural exchange” with everyone in the evening. One part of the cultural exchange consisted of us taking turns playing/singing songs. We sang (with guitar accompaniment) “Sweet Home Alabama” and “On the Radio” (by Regina Spector). It was one of the most unexpected experiences of my life –singing Regina to a crowd of attentive children in blue uniforms, a monk, and some older women in drab, traditional clothing.
The next morning (at 4 am) we had another exchange in which they asked us what religion we were. One other girl and I said we were raised Jewish, and the Asoke woman who had been acting as our host mom (she was an English teacher before she became Asoke) said that she didn’t know much about Judaism, but she had heard that Jews were particularly violent and not very good to their slaves (!). So the other girl went into a brief history of the Jewish people, the holocaust, and the Israel-Palistine issue. When she finished, our host mom asked, “so, is it true that Jews are stingy?” HOW DID THAT STEREOTYPE GET TO THAILAND? It was crazy. I don’t think she meant anything bad by that, though…
After that, we accompanied the monk on an alms round through a city. Picture a monk, about 10 children in blue uniforms, and about five farang, all shoeless, wandering through a city and accepting donations of food. Kind of crazy.
And then, after a whole lot of intense wai-ing, hugging, and even kisses on the cheek, we left. I’d like to go back, though.
2. HIV/AIDS Patients: We spoke with an NGO about HIV/AIDS and then we visited a clinic and people’s homes. It was kind of intense. One thing that struck me is that a lot of the patients didn’t know how they got it, and they didn’t really seem that interested in knowing. One hadn’t even told his ex-wife and wasn’t sure if he ever would (apparently, he didn’t have the courage. Just for the record though, I feel like it’s kind of a necessary thing to do, regardless of courage). Also, we didn’t really connect HIV/AIDS to everything else we have been studying, but it is really connected (I explained this to the group later, if you’re interested in my analysis on the matter, ask).
3. BANGKOK: AHH. I HATE BANGKOK. It was nice to eat international (Indian, Mexican, middle-eastern) food, but that was the only good thing about being in Bangkok. We stayed right near Khaosin road, which is where all the dumb, white tourists like to go play. It was kind of a jarring contrast to what we usually see. Also, we had to go see male and female sex shows. That was a really difficult experience, especially in the context of what we have been studying. But we did get to have a bunch of really good exchanges with NGOs. I am though, as I’ve mentioned numerous times, very, very, very glad to be home.
We’re done with units and now we’re starting final project planning. I’m in a group doing stuff with alternative education in the school we’ve been building with and in another school in a slum. It should be fun . Also, it’s almost sonkran (water festival). We have four days off, and I’m going back to Udon Thani (the land-unit village) with some friends. That should be amazing too. I can’t believe I have only another month on the program…
Miss you guys.
Then in the afternoon, some of us returned to the local elementary school where we have been helping build an adobe music building. We stomped in mud, coated the walls with our mixture, and joked around with the workers. I don’t think I can explain how much I love this building process. It’s so sustainable and traditional, and incredibly fun(The first time we built there, the kids were building too, but they’re on summer break now. They have been an integral part of the building process.). When we were stomping in the mud, I led the group in the moose song and Princess Pat (really, would you expect otherwise?) And then the director of the school invited us over for an amazing homemade dinner. It was so good to eat Isaan food outside on a porch under the palm trees again.
As I said, it’s good to be home.
Notable events since last time I posted:
1. The Asoke community: The Asoke are really extreme Buddhists who try to live without any greed at all. They grow their own food, do everything communally, refrain from wearing shoes, and follow the 5 precepts very, very carefully. The community we stayed with for a night consisted mainly of school children (apparently, parents can send their kids there for free) and older women whose husbands aren’t Asoke (Thai marital relationships aren’t usally super-close anyway, so it’s not unusual). The Asoke wake up every morning at 3, have discussion/class from 4-6, work from 6-8, breakfast at 9 (most of the adults only eat one meal a day), work again from 12-2 and 2-4, dinner (for the kids and us) at 5, meeting from 6-8, and sleep after that. We had a really good time there, actually. We got to help out with work (gardening, fertilizer-making), play games (huggy bear, down by the banks, etc) with the kids, and have a “cultural exchange” with everyone in the evening. One part of the cultural exchange consisted of us taking turns playing/singing songs. We sang (with guitar accompaniment) “Sweet Home Alabama” and “On the Radio” (by Regina Spector). It was one of the most unexpected experiences of my life –singing Regina to a crowd of attentive children in blue uniforms, a monk, and some older women in drab, traditional clothing.
The next morning (at 4 am) we had another exchange in which they asked us what religion we were. One other girl and I said we were raised Jewish, and the Asoke woman who had been acting as our host mom (she was an English teacher before she became Asoke) said that she didn’t know much about Judaism, but she had heard that Jews were particularly violent and not very good to their slaves (!). So the other girl went into a brief history of the Jewish people, the holocaust, and the Israel-Palistine issue. When she finished, our host mom asked, “so, is it true that Jews are stingy?” HOW DID THAT STEREOTYPE GET TO THAILAND? It was crazy. I don’t think she meant anything bad by that, though…
After that, we accompanied the monk on an alms round through a city. Picture a monk, about 10 children in blue uniforms, and about five farang, all shoeless, wandering through a city and accepting donations of food. Kind of crazy.
And then, after a whole lot of intense wai-ing, hugging, and even kisses on the cheek, we left. I’d like to go back, though.
2. HIV/AIDS Patients: We spoke with an NGO about HIV/AIDS and then we visited a clinic and people’s homes. It was kind of intense. One thing that struck me is that a lot of the patients didn’t know how they got it, and they didn’t really seem that interested in knowing. One hadn’t even told his ex-wife and wasn’t sure if he ever would (apparently, he didn’t have the courage. Just for the record though, I feel like it’s kind of a necessary thing to do, regardless of courage). Also, we didn’t really connect HIV/AIDS to everything else we have been studying, but it is really connected (I explained this to the group later, if you’re interested in my analysis on the matter, ask).
3. BANGKOK: AHH. I HATE BANGKOK. It was nice to eat international (Indian, Mexican, middle-eastern) food, but that was the only good thing about being in Bangkok. We stayed right near Khaosin road, which is where all the dumb, white tourists like to go play. It was kind of a jarring contrast to what we usually see. Also, we had to go see male and female sex shows. That was a really difficult experience, especially in the context of what we have been studying. But we did get to have a bunch of really good exchanges with NGOs. I am though, as I’ve mentioned numerous times, very, very, very glad to be home.
We’re done with units and now we’re starting final project planning. I’m in a group doing stuff with alternative education in the school we’ve been building with and in another school in a slum. It should be fun . Also, it’s almost sonkran (water festival). We have four days off, and I’m going back to Udon Thani (the land-unit village) with some friends. That should be amazing too. I can’t believe I have only another month on the program…
Miss you guys.
Kira (Thailand): Adobe, Asoke, and other Adventures
I never thought I’d say this, but it’s really good to be back in Khon Kaen. Yesterday morning when I was walking past the classroom, one of the little pre-school-aged kids who hangs out outside ran up to me and hugged me around the knees, shouting “FARANG! FARANG!” He motioned to his two friends, and they ran up and hugged me too. “FARANG! FARANG!” Apparently, they missed us when we were in Bangkok...
Then in the afternoon, some of us returned to the local elementary school where we have been helping build an adobe music building. We stomped in mud, coated the walls with our mixture, and joked around with the workers. I don’t think I can explain how much I love this building process. It’s so sustainable and traditional, and incredibly fun(The first time we built there, the kids were building too, but they’re on summer break now. They have been an integral part of the building process.). When we were stomping in the mud, I led the group in the moose song and Princess Pat (really, would you expect otherwise?) And then the director of the school invited us over for an amazing homemade dinner. It was so good to eat Isaan food outside on a porch under the palm trees again.
As I said, it’s good to be home.
Notable events since last time I posted:
1. The Asoke community: The Asoke are really extreme Buddhists who try to live without any greed at all. They grow their own food, do everything communally, refrain from wearing shoes, and follow the 5 precepts very, very carefully. The community we stayed with for a night consisted mainly of school children (apparently, parents can send their kids there for free) and older women whose husbands aren’t Asoke (Thai marital relationships aren’t usally super-close anyway, so it’s not unusual). The Asoke wake up every morning at 3, have discussion/class from 4-6, work from 6-8, breakfast at 9 (most of the adults only eat one meal a day), work again from 12-2 and 2-4, dinner (for the kids and us) at 5, meeting from 6-8, and sleep after that. We had a really good time there, actually. We got to help out with work (gardening, fertilizer-making), play games (huggy bear, down by the banks, etc) with the kids, and have a “cultural exchange” with everyone in the evening. One part of the cultural exchange consisted of us taking turns playing/singing songs. We sang (with guitar accompaniment) “Sweet Home Alabama” and “On the Radio” (by Regina Spector). It was one of the most unexpected experiences of my life –singing Regina to a crowd of attentive children in blue uniforms, a monk, and some older women in drab, traditional clothing.
The next morning (at 4 am) we had another exchange in which they asked us what religion we were. One other girl and I said we were raised Jewish, and the Asoke woman who had been acting as our host mom (she was an English teacher before she became Asoke) said that she didn’t know much about Judaism, but she had heard that Jews were particularly violent and not very good to their slaves (!). So the other girl went into a brief history of the Jewish people, the holocaust, and the Israel-Palistine issue. When she finished, our host mom asked, “so, is it true that Jews are stingy?” HOW DID THAT STEREOTYPE GET TO THAILAND? It was crazy. I don’t think she meant anything bad by that, though…
After that, we accompanied the monk on an alms round through a city. Picture a monk, about 10 children in blue uniforms, and about five farang, all shoeless, wandering through a city and accepting donations of food. Kind of crazy.
And then, after a whole lot of intense wai-ing, hugging, and even kisses on the cheek, we left. I’d like to go back, though.
2. HIV/AIDS Patients: We spoke with an NGO about HIV/AIDS and then we visited a clinic and people’s homes. It was kind of intense. One thing that struck me is that a lot of the patients didn’t know how they got it, and they didn’t really seem that interested in knowing. One hadn’t even told his ex-wife and wasn’t sure if he ever would (apparently, he didn’t have the courage. Just for the record though, I feel like it’s kind of a necessary thing to do, regardless of courage). Also, we didn’t really connect HIV/AIDS to everything else we have been studying, but it is really connected (I explained this to the group later, if you’re interested in my analysis on the matter, ask).
3. BANGKOK: AHH. I HATE BANGKOK. It was nice to eat international (Indian, Mexican, middle-eastern) food, but that was the only good thing about being in Bangkok. We stayed right near Khaosin road, which is where all the dumb, white tourists like to go play. It was kind of a jarring contrast to what we usually see. Also, we had to go see male and female sex shows. That was a really difficult experience, especially in the context of what we have been studying. But we did get to have a bunch of really good exchanges with NGOs. I am though, as I’ve mentioned numerous times, very, very, very glad to be home.
We’re done with units and now we’re starting final project planning. I’m in a group doing stuff with alternative education in the school we’ve been building with and in another school in a slum. It should be fun . Also, it’s almost sonkran (water festival). We have four days off, and I’m going back to Udon Thani (the land-unit village) with some friends. That should be amazing too. I can’t believe I have only another month on the program…
Miss you guys.
Then in the afternoon, some of us returned to the local elementary school where we have been helping build an adobe music building. We stomped in mud, coated the walls with our mixture, and joked around with the workers. I don’t think I can explain how much I love this building process. It’s so sustainable and traditional, and incredibly fun(The first time we built there, the kids were building too, but they’re on summer break now. They have been an integral part of the building process.). When we were stomping in the mud, I led the group in the moose song and Princess Pat (really, would you expect otherwise?) And then the director of the school invited us over for an amazing homemade dinner. It was so good to eat Isaan food outside on a porch under the palm trees again.
As I said, it’s good to be home.
Notable events since last time I posted:
1. The Asoke community: The Asoke are really extreme Buddhists who try to live without any greed at all. They grow their own food, do everything communally, refrain from wearing shoes, and follow the 5 precepts very, very carefully. The community we stayed with for a night consisted mainly of school children (apparently, parents can send their kids there for free) and older women whose husbands aren’t Asoke (Thai marital relationships aren’t usally super-close anyway, so it’s not unusual). The Asoke wake up every morning at 3, have discussion/class from 4-6, work from 6-8, breakfast at 9 (most of the adults only eat one meal a day), work again from 12-2 and 2-4, dinner (for the kids and us) at 5, meeting from 6-8, and sleep after that. We had a really good time there, actually. We got to help out with work (gardening, fertilizer-making), play games (huggy bear, down by the banks, etc) with the kids, and have a “cultural exchange” with everyone in the evening. One part of the cultural exchange consisted of us taking turns playing/singing songs. We sang (with guitar accompaniment) “Sweet Home Alabama” and “On the Radio” (by Regina Spector). It was one of the most unexpected experiences of my life –singing Regina to a crowd of attentive children in blue uniforms, a monk, and some older women in drab, traditional clothing.
The next morning (at 4 am) we had another exchange in which they asked us what religion we were. One other girl and I said we were raised Jewish, and the Asoke woman who had been acting as our host mom (she was an English teacher before she became Asoke) said that she didn’t know much about Judaism, but she had heard that Jews were particularly violent and not very good to their slaves (!). So the other girl went into a brief history of the Jewish people, the holocaust, and the Israel-Palistine issue. When she finished, our host mom asked, “so, is it true that Jews are stingy?” HOW DID THAT STEREOTYPE GET TO THAILAND? It was crazy. I don’t think she meant anything bad by that, though…
After that, we accompanied the monk on an alms round through a city. Picture a monk, about 10 children in blue uniforms, and about five farang, all shoeless, wandering through a city and accepting donations of food. Kind of crazy.
And then, after a whole lot of intense wai-ing, hugging, and even kisses on the cheek, we left. I’d like to go back, though.
2. HIV/AIDS Patients: We spoke with an NGO about HIV/AIDS and then we visited a clinic and people’s homes. It was kind of intense. One thing that struck me is that a lot of the patients didn’t know how they got it, and they didn’t really seem that interested in knowing. One hadn’t even told his ex-wife and wasn’t sure if he ever would (apparently, he didn’t have the courage. Just for the record though, I feel like it’s kind of a necessary thing to do, regardless of courage). Also, we didn’t really connect HIV/AIDS to everything else we have been studying, but it is really connected (I explained this to the group later, if you’re interested in my analysis on the matter, ask).
3. BANGKOK: AHH. I HATE BANGKOK. It was nice to eat international (Indian, Mexican, middle-eastern) food, but that was the only good thing about being in Bangkok. We stayed right near Khaosin road, which is where all the dumb, white tourists like to go play. It was kind of a jarring contrast to what we usually see. Also, we had to go see male and female sex shows. That was a really difficult experience, especially in the context of what we have been studying. But we did get to have a bunch of really good exchanges with NGOs. I am though, as I’ve mentioned numerous times, very, very, very glad to be home.
We’re done with units and now we’re starting final project planning. I’m in a group doing stuff with alternative education in the school we’ve been building with and in another school in a slum. It should be fun . Also, it’s almost sonkran (water festival). We have four days off, and I’m going back to Udon Thani (the land-unit village) with some friends. That should be amazing too. I can’t believe I have only another month on the program…
Miss you guys.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Kate (Ireland): We're kings among runaways
So my darlings, I just had the best spring break ever. First, Molly was here in Galway for St. Patrick's and we had a blast--went downtown to the parade and the entire city was out and about, crowding every street. It was also my friend Jenna's 21st so we had a lot of partying on our hands. So basically from noon to midnight we traveled from pub to pub drinking and dancing and laughing (all in green, naturally).
The bad news was that my friend Jerad, who was coming with Siobhan and I for break, had a money crisis and decided he had to cancel everything, leaving me alone in Spain for 5 days. Shit. So I had no choice but to get on the 7am bus to the airport with
Siobhan and I began our epic journey to the continent. After an entire day of traveling (planes, trains, buses) we got to Emily's apartment in Freiburg. The next few days we spent walking around exploring, I fell in love with the city. Emily isn't exaggerating when she calls it the best city in Europe. It's a big university town with unbelievable architecture, pastries sent from heaven, exciting bars, and it's basically surrounded by the Black Forest. I also got to practice my sad, minimal German. Ireland is magnificent, but it was fun to be in a place where I never heard English.
After a couple lovely days in Germany, Siobhan, Emily, and some of Emily's friends from her program took an overnight train to Amsterdam. I was shaken awake at the Dutch border by passport authorities and they told me not to go to the coffeeshops (weedhouses) because they don't sell coffee. Then they laughed and walked away. Great way to wake up. Amsterdam was pretty surreal. Aside from the snow, which really pissed me off, the city was really exciting. More canals than Venice! I really dug the canals and the tall skinny buildings, super beautiful. The Red Light district was funny, a mixture of hilarious and creepy...whores, neon lights, weed, tourists. God the tourists. Never seen so many in my life. Anyhow, we spent countless hours lounging in the coffeshops. When we gathered energy and focus together, we did cool tourist things like the Van Gogh Museum, an amazing canal boat cruise, various sex shops, and the Anne Frank House. Siobhan and I parted ways after Amsterdam (she went off to Lisbon to meet a high school friend) so I got on the plane to Madrid. Alone. Scared.
It ended up being wonderful. Madrid totally blew my mind. Warm weather, blue sunny skies, incredible architecture, sculptures and plazas. You can really tell it was a royal city. I felt like a princess in the absolutely perfect El Parque del Buen Retiro, former royal gardens. That was my favorite part of the trip I think, this giant, gorgeous park full of perfect gardens, marble statues, beautiful fountains, a crystal palace..definitely check out my pictures. The best part of the trip was when I was lounging in the sun at the Rey Alfonso monument at the edge of the lake. A middle-aged man was sitting near me and we ended up talking in Spanish for over an hour--basic sentence structures and such, but still, I was incredibly proud of myself and beyond grateful for my five miserable years of studying Spanish. Other Madrid highlights included: the Reina Sofia art museum with a huge temporary Picasso exhibit, window shopping along Gran Via, and meeting a great girl at my hostel who ended up traveling to Toledo with me.
Toledo, where my friend Hilary from the film festival is studying, is one hour south of Madrid. The city was built to be a labyrinth to confuse and dissuade invaders--you can tell. Everything cobblestoned, all the streets tiny and twisty, every building ancient, it was amazing. The area is super hilly, so we would be panting up some vertical sidestreet when someone would yell "coche!" and we'd have to hide in a doorway to let the car pass. Yes, the streets were the width of one car. Anyhow, it was phenomenal to see Hilary and get a feel of old-world Spain. Great paella as well.
Barcelona was the last leg of my journey and by this time I was getting burnt out and lonely. It didn't help that the weather was grey and crappy when I got there and there were creepy men everywhere trying to get my attention. I tried to make the best of it though. Walked around Las Ramblas, the huge main pedestrian thoroughfare filled with street vendors selling everything from flowers to souveniers to birds and chipmunks. I also went to the most wonderful market, La Boqueria--row after row after row of stands selling the most perfect displays of fruit, veg, fish, meat, candy, bread. Took a few pictures, hopefully they turned out ok. I also went on a lovely boat tour around the bay and the coast. The highlight of Barcelona was La Sagrada Familia, the giant cathedral by Barcelona's most important and innovative architect Gaudi. Google it because my pictures don't do it justice. It was amazing from the outside, but I went in an elevator one third of a mile up in the air inside one of the cathedral towers--breath-taking view of the whole city and the ocean and the coast. Perfect. My last night in Barcelona I went out with a bunch of amazing people from my hostel for tapas and a flamenco show (the sexiest thing I have ever seen), this great package deal thing arranged by the hostel for 10 euro. They also filled us up with great sangria and unpleasant Spanish shots. But it was a fantastic evening capped off by a 3 hour "nap" before I got up to go to the airport.
Back in Galway, it really feels like home here. All of my friends are back from their travels as well and we're all so happy to see each other again and share stories and enjoy each other as much as possible as our time winds down. But I think about all you guys a ton and miss you and send you vibes of love from across the Atlantic.
The bad news was that my friend Jerad, who was coming with Siobhan and I for break, had a money crisis and decided he had to cancel everything, leaving me alone in Spain for 5 days. Shit. So I had no choice but to get on the 7am bus to the airport with
Siobhan and I began our epic journey to the continent. After an entire day of traveling (planes, trains, buses) we got to Emily's apartment in Freiburg. The next few days we spent walking around exploring, I fell in love with the city. Emily isn't exaggerating when she calls it the best city in Europe. It's a big university town with unbelievable architecture, pastries sent from heaven, exciting bars, and it's basically surrounded by the Black Forest. I also got to practice my sad, minimal German. Ireland is magnificent, but it was fun to be in a place where I never heard English.
After a couple lovely days in Germany, Siobhan, Emily, and some of Emily's friends from her program took an overnight train to Amsterdam. I was shaken awake at the Dutch border by passport authorities and they told me not to go to the coffeeshops (weedhouses) because they don't sell coffee. Then they laughed and walked away. Great way to wake up. Amsterdam was pretty surreal. Aside from the snow, which really pissed me off, the city was really exciting. More canals than Venice! I really dug the canals and the tall skinny buildings, super beautiful. The Red Light district was funny, a mixture of hilarious and creepy...whores, neon lights, weed, tourists. God the tourists. Never seen so many in my life. Anyhow, we spent countless hours lounging in the coffeshops. When we gathered energy and focus together, we did cool tourist things like the Van Gogh Museum, an amazing canal boat cruise, various sex shops, and the Anne Frank House. Siobhan and I parted ways after Amsterdam (she went off to Lisbon to meet a high school friend) so I got on the plane to Madrid. Alone. Scared.
It ended up being wonderful. Madrid totally blew my mind. Warm weather, blue sunny skies, incredible architecture, sculptures and plazas. You can really tell it was a royal city. I felt like a princess in the absolutely perfect El Parque del Buen Retiro, former royal gardens. That was my favorite part of the trip I think, this giant, gorgeous park full of perfect gardens, marble statues, beautiful fountains, a crystal palace..definitely check out my pictures. The best part of the trip was when I was lounging in the sun at the Rey Alfonso monument at the edge of the lake. A middle-aged man was sitting near me and we ended up talking in Spanish for over an hour--basic sentence structures and such, but still, I was incredibly proud of myself and beyond grateful for my five miserable years of studying Spanish. Other Madrid highlights included: the Reina Sofia art museum with a huge temporary Picasso exhibit, window shopping along Gran Via, and meeting a great girl at my hostel who ended up traveling to Toledo with me.
Toledo, where my friend Hilary from the film festival is studying, is one hour south of Madrid. The city was built to be a labyrinth to confuse and dissuade invaders--you can tell. Everything cobblestoned, all the streets tiny and twisty, every building ancient, it was amazing. The area is super hilly, so we would be panting up some vertical sidestreet when someone would yell "coche!" and we'd have to hide in a doorway to let the car pass. Yes, the streets were the width of one car. Anyhow, it was phenomenal to see Hilary and get a feel of old-world Spain. Great paella as well.
Barcelona was the last leg of my journey and by this time I was getting burnt out and lonely. It didn't help that the weather was grey and crappy when I got there and there were creepy men everywhere trying to get my attention. I tried to make the best of it though. Walked around Las Ramblas, the huge main pedestrian thoroughfare filled with street vendors selling everything from flowers to souveniers to birds and chipmunks. I also went to the most wonderful market, La Boqueria--row after row after row of stands selling the most perfect displays of fruit, veg, fish, meat, candy, bread. Took a few pictures, hopefully they turned out ok. I also went on a lovely boat tour around the bay and the coast. The highlight of Barcelona was La Sagrada Familia, the giant cathedral by Barcelona's most important and innovative architect Gaudi. Google it because my pictures don't do it justice. It was amazing from the outside, but I went in an elevator one third of a mile up in the air inside one of the cathedral towers--breath-taking view of the whole city and the ocean and the coast. Perfect. My last night in Barcelona I went out with a bunch of amazing people from my hostel for tapas and a flamenco show (the sexiest thing I have ever seen), this great package deal thing arranged by the hostel for 10 euro. They also filled us up with great sangria and unpleasant Spanish shots. But it was a fantastic evening capped off by a 3 hour "nap" before I got up to go to the airport.
Back in Galway, it really feels like home here. All of my friends are back from their travels as well and we're all so happy to see each other again and share stories and enjoy each other as much as possible as our time winds down. But I think about all you guys a ton and miss you and send you vibes of love from across the Atlantic.
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